Yes, it will work on ductboard and we’ve used it here many times.
We find that the ductboard deteriorates over time and the black outer fabric liner breaks down and will cause fine black particles to be released into the air system. We coat this outer lining and it will encase the outer fabric and stop the release of particle debris. However, please note that due to the construction of ductboard, it can only penetrate the outer layer; it does not make it to the metal structure since there is a fiberglass layer between the fabric top layer and the metal structure.
It really is not intended for flex. There are certain circumstances where it will work, but our process is intended to be a full encapsulation of the interior of the ductwork. If there are large holes (over 1/2″-3/4″), our spray liner will just blow out into the open framing. If the flex is in an exposed attic, its usually best to replace it. There have been instances where we have found flex inside walls or soffits that only had minor holes. We have sprayed those and it worked just fine. The larger holes (from rodent intrusion, etc.) need to have some structure behind them for our material to adhere to.
Duct Armor can be applied to all shapes of air duct work since it’s a spray on application.
Duct Armor comes with a 15 year warranty.
The majority of ductwork in the United States is made of rolled or galvanized steel, Transite (asbestos & cement), or sonotube.
Transite originated as the trade name that the Johns-Manville Corporation (originally in Manville, NJ) created for a line of asbestos-cement products. In time, it becomes something of a generic term for other companies’ similar asbestos-cement products. This material was made with cement and varying amounts (12-50%) asbestos fiber. From the 1950’s through the early 1980’s, many slab construction homes in New Jersey used Transite to fabricate in-floor HVAC ducts. Trenches were dug, the Transite ducts were placed in the ground, the slab was poured over the top, and then the furnace was connected and the vents put in place.
After 30 to 65 years of being subjected to the hot and cold blowing air through them, the Transite cement has experienced some level of deterioration. You might see this as a fine, white power-like substance in the ducts or around the floor vents.
Two potential options include encapsulating your ductwork with Duct Armor or abandoning the in-floor ductwork altogether and rebuilding with overhead ductwork.
Disclaimer: Duct Armor is biased on this one! Encapsulating your in-floor air ducts is simple, takes just a few hours, and maintains the efficiencies of your original air distribution system.
But you do need to evaluate your options. Abandoning the transite ductwork would require some or all of the following over a period of days, weeks, or months: 1) Filling the existing ducts with cement; 2) Purchasing a new, updraft furnace; 3) Permits; 4) Deconstructing walls and ceilings in order to run the new ductwork through your house; 5) Putting your house back together and painting…everything. Beware the temptation to put the new supply vents and the return vents at the ceiling level: This could lead to huge energy bills because most of the conditioned air never reaches the floor level. And if you settle for the lower cost flexduct option, you may be impeding air flow, thus increasing energy costs. Flexduct can also introduce more carcinogens into your home because of its fiberglass insulation which is usually protected with just a thin plastic barrier. (fiberglass is a carcinogen)
A thick gauged cardboard with a foil lining that was used for in-floor ducting in some construction from the early 1970’s to the mid 1980’s. The problems with these systems all results from water: High water table, bad drainage away from the house, or humidity/moisture damage over many years from within the HVAC system. When the cardboard starts to deteriorate, air flow is impeded and allergens are released into your home or office space.
Our video inspection will assist you with identifying the source of the problem. This could be a drainage issue or a leaking water pipe. It is our perspective that the water in the ducts is a symptom of a larger problem that needs to be fixed or you could eventually see much more significant damage to your foundation. There may first be a need for such remedies as rain gutters or drainage to draw water away from the foundation. Then we can apply Duct Armor to restore the integrity of your ductwork.
If you see rust on the outside of your ducts, in your duct vents, or inside your ducts, your air distribution infrastructure is in need Duct Armor. Extended exposure to moisture is deteriorating your ductwork and releasing allergens into your home or office. Duct Armor will arrest further deterioration and restore high indoor air quality.
Yes. According to the Center of Environmental Prediction at the School of Environmental and Biological Sciences at Rutgers University, many homes typically sees atmospheric mold levels ion the 2,000 – 6,000 range. After Hurricane Irene those levels spiked to nearly 14,000. So called, “Sandy Mold” as a result of Hurricane Sandy has also been a big problem. And the record snow fall and rain that we have experienced during the winter of 2013 – 2014 will only contribute to mold levels in New Jersey.
When mold spores get into our homes, they can settle in the air conditioning system and ductwork along with dust and other contaminants. Air ducts, especially during the humid months, can be virtual incubators for microbial pollutants such as mold and bacteria. With the alternating high and low humidity conditions which regularly occur in our air conditioning ducts during normal operation, mold will produce spores and distribute them throughout the house. Natural humidity levels as well as the installation of humidifiers into our HVAC systems both contribute to this problem.
Molds emit spores and chemicals as part of their normal life cycle. Individuals may exhibit reactions when exposed to these materials. Spores emitted by molds are microscopic and once airborne can be inhaled easily. Spores may contain allergens and can cause irritation in the nose, throat and respiratory tract. Common allergic reactions include sneezing, nasal congestion, coughing, and skin rashes. Molds may also trigger asthma attacks in persons who are allergic.
In addition to allergens, molds may emit microbiological volatile organic compounds (MVOC’s). These chemicals usually have a strong and unpleasant odor and are associated with the musty smell that many individuals equate to mold being present. These chemicals are released into the air and when inhaled, can also cause allergic reactions. MVOC’s have also been linked to headaches, nausea, dizziness and fatigue.
Some molds may produce toxic substances called mycotoxins. Mycotoxins can be inhaled, ingested or absorbed through the skin. Mycotoxins are potent, toxic chemicals that can cause significant health problems. Different molds may product different mycotoxins depending on the surface on which they are growing. Mycotoxins can affect the central nervous system, the immune system, the respiratory system and the digestive system. Some molds may cause more severe reactions than other molds, so it is important that mold be remediated. For any severe exposures or health effects associated with a mold exposure, individuals should consult their physician. (Mold Advisory Bulletin, September 2004 from NJ Department of Health & Senior Services)
Yes. Duct Armor will address the current mold problem in your air ducts as well as prevent future growth. Mold requires air to grow. By encapsulating any existing mold with Duct Armor, oxygen is removed. And because of the high zinc content in the material, mold cannot grow on the new lining of your ductwork. See our mold test results here. (link)
Even after the air ducts have been professional cleaned, there will still be sooty residue in the ductwork. That is when we can apply Duct Armor to encapsulate the sooty residue and restore your air ducts to better-than-new condition.
Yes. According to the US Department of Energy, between 10-50% of conditioned air is lost during transit through the air ducts. Leaky air ducts is a recognized problem, especially in hard-to-reach or otherwise inaccessible spaces. Business owners and home owners are spending a great deal of money to purchase Energy Star Rated furnaces and air conditioners, and they are losing that efficiently conditioned air through leaky ductwork. Don’t forget to seal your ducts from the inside, with Duct Armor.
Yes. Our proprietary Duct Armor product is water-based, non-toxic, and environmentally safe. It has a high zinc content to prevent mold growth and is comprised of over 50% adhesives. It has a NFPA Class A fire rating. It will dry to a rubber-like coating. It contains no VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) so there is no out-gassing of bad stuff in the short or long term. You can stay in your home as we apply it, and you will be using your HVAC before our technicians pull away from your property
Using our patented process, the average home takes 3 – 4 hours.
The Duct Armor product has been applied in thousands of applications across the country for over twelve years. These include small homes, estates, banks, office buildings, high rise commercial buildings, restaurants, hotels, schools and universities. Regardless of the problem that originally brought Duct Armor to their attention, every one of our customers is appreciating the benefits of an improved infrastructure, great indoor air quality and reduced energy costs as a result of implementing the Duct Armor Solution.
No. We recommend that you have your ducts cleaned by a professional duct cleaning service before applying Duct Armor, unless it has been done recently. In the future, you will still want to have your ducts cleaned to remove dust, dirt, and debris that can enter your system through normal operation or through the floor vents. Duct Armor will eliminate the need for any future mold treatment.